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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. (SHOO)·Q4 2024 Earnings Summary
Executive Summary
- Q4 revenue grew 12% to $582.3M, capping FY24 revenue +15.2% to $2.283B; Adjusted Q4 EPS was $0.55 vs $0.61 YoY, with management stating results were at the high end of guidance .
- Mix and promo pressure trimmed margins: Q4 gross margin 40.4% (vs 41.7% adj. prior year) and wholesale gross margin 30.5% (mix shift to private label); DTC gross margin 62.0% (higher promotional concentration) .
- 2025 outlook: revenue +17% to +19% and EPS $2.30–$2.40, assuming May 1 close of Kurt Geiger; ex-KG, revenue low-single-digit growth and EPS $2.20–$2.30; Q1 EPS guided down ~30–35% YoY on tariffs, heavier Q1 marketing, and soft DTC quarter-to-date .
- Strategic catalyst: pending Kurt Geiger acquisition (£289M EV; ~£400M LTM revenue), adding an “accessible luxury” handbag-led brand aligned with SHOO’s international, accessories, and DTC growth vectors; expected ~$0.10 EPS contribution in 2025 (partial-year) .
What Went Well and What Went Wrong
What Went Well
- Broad-based top-line growth: Q4 revenue +12% to $582.3M, with wholesale +13.6% and DTC +8.4%; wholesale accessories/apparel +35.4% and wholesale footwear +1.0% YoY .
- DTC and comps positive: DTC revenue $176.0M (+8.4% YoY) with comp sales +4.5% in Q4; full-year international momentum (EMEA +18%) and DTC growth supported results .
- Management execution and positioning: “delivered earnings results at the high end of our guidance” and highlighted disciplined strategy across international, non-footwear, and DTC .
What Went Wrong
- Margin compression: consolidated Q4 gross margin 40.4% (vs 41.7% adj. prior year) on wholesale mix shift to private label and DTC promo concentration; Q4 adjusted operating margin 9.0% (vs 10.2% prior year) .
- Category pockets of pressure ahead: management expects Steve Madden handbags down double digits in 2025 given backed-up wholesale inventory; organic wholesale down low-single digits for 2025, though wholesale footwear seen up low-single digits .
- Near-term headwinds intensifying: tariffs (China and Mexico) and manufacturing diversification will pressure 2025; management not giving gross margin guidance due to uncertainty; Q1 EPS down ~30–35% YoY guided .
Financial Results
Headline P&L vs Prior Quarters
Notes: Non-GAAP adjustments in Q4 included severance, legal settlements, M&A/JV costs, and a benefit from contingent consideration revaluation .
Q4 2024 Segment and Channel Detail (YoY)
Additional Q4 items:
- DTC comps +4.5% .
- ~$13M of mass-channel shipments pulled into late Q4 from Jan-2025, benefiting wholesale in the quarter .
KPIs and Balance Sheet
Guidance Changes
Earnings Call Themes & Trends
Management Commentary
- “We are pleased to have delivered earnings results at the high end of our guidance range for the fourth quarter and full year 2024.”
- “We are cautious on the near-term outlook… most notably the impact of new tariffs on goods imported into the United States… [and] the pending acquisition of Kurt Geiger… expected to close in the second quarter of 2025.”
- On tariff mitigation: “Diversifying production out of China… down from 71% to 58%… seeking factory price concessions… selectively raising prices starting in fall.”
- On Kurt Geiger: “Accessible luxury led by handbags… attractive fit with our initiatives… ~$0.10 EPS built in for this year (partial year).”
Q&A Highlights
- Gross margin outlook and tariff mitigation: Management will not guide GM given uncertainty; mitigation via sourcing diversification (targeting low-40% China placement by late 2025), vendor concessions, surgical price increases .
- DTC/Q1 setup: Slow start to spring (sandals), weak store traffic; weather and lower consumer sentiment cited; Q1 EPS down ~30–35% YoY; significant Q1 marketing push (“House of Steve”) .
- Category/segment cadence: 2025 organic plan: wholesale down low single digits; DTC up high single digits; within wholesale, footwear up low single digits; accessories/apparel down mid single digits; Steve Madden handbags down double digits .
- Inventory/transit: Inventory up 12.5% YoY largely due to +6 days average transit; adjusted for transit, inventory up low single digits; boots sold well; spring transition is focus .
- Financing and leverage for KG: New term loan modeled at SOFR + 200 bps; expect small net debt at closing (~0.5x), targeting net debt ~0 over time before resuming buybacks .
Estimates Context
- S&P Global Wall Street consensus estimates were unavailable at the time of analysis (tool limit exceeded), so we cannot provide definitive beat/miss versus consensus for Q4 or FY25 guidance. Management said Q4/FY24 earnings were at the high end of guidance, suggesting in-line to better-than-expected execution vs internal targets .
- Given guided Q1 EPS down
30–35% and full-year tariff/mix pressures, Street EPS models may need to reflect lower near-term margins, heavier Q1 marketing, and partial-year KG accretion ($0.10) .
Financial Results vs Estimates (Reference)
Note: S&P Global consensus data was unavailable at the time of retrieval (request limit).
Key Takeaways for Investors
- Healthy top-line with margin pressure: Q4 revenue +12% but GM slipped to 40.4% on private-label mix and promo concentration; 2025 margins face tariff/mix headwinds with no GM guidance—focus on sourcing diversification and surgical pricing .
- 2025 reset before reacceleration: Q1 EPS down ~30–35% YoY; full-year EPS $2.30–$2.40 including KG; ex-KG $2.20–$2.30 suggests organic pressure, particularly in handbags and wholesale .
- KG adds a differentiated growth leg: Accessible-luxury, handbag-led brand with international/DTC strengths; ~£400M LTM revenue; ~$0.10 EPS partial-year in 2025; synergy opportunities via SHOO’s global network .
- Watch category/segment mix: 2025 plan calls for DTC high-single-digit growth and wholesale footwear returning to low-single-digit growth, offset by mid-single-digit decline in wholesale accessories/apparel and double-digit decline in Steve Madden handbags .
- Inventory manageable; logistics a watch item: YoY inventory lift driven by longer transit; adjusted for transit, low-single-digit increase; speed-to-market remains a priority amid sourcing shifts .
- Capital returns steady with disciplined leverage: Dividend maintained ($0.21); share repurchases ongoing; modest leverage for KG and path back to net debt ~0 over time .
- Digital enablement continues: AI-driven ecommerce optimization (Fast Simon) and Buy with Prime integration enhance conversion and CX heading into 2025 .
Appendix: Non-GAAP Adjustments (Q4 2024)
- Q4’24 adjustments included severance, legal settlements/fees, M&A/JV costs, and a favorable contingent consideration revaluation; adjusted operating expenses $182.9M, adjusted operating income $52.6M, adjusted diluted EPS $0.55 .
Sources: Q4/FY24 earnings press release and 8‑K (2/26/25) ; Q4 earnings call transcript (2/26/25) and duplicate source ; Q3 2024 8‑K (11/7/24) ; Q2 2024 8‑K (7/31/24) ; Kurt Geiger acquisition release (2/13/25) ; Digital/AI and DTC enablement (9/18/24; 11/26/24) .